The first time I moved to Madrid was in September 2019. This was still the height of summer, although approaching the end. It was so hot, the sun was so bright and strong and Madrid was a ghost town. I was so confused – where was everyone? It didn’t occur to me they’d be at the pool in Madrid.
If you happen to be in Madrid for the summer, you’ve kind of made a mistake. Madrid is wildly hot in the summertime and there’s almost no respite from the heat since there’s not a natural body of water accessible in the city. It’s so hot, in fact, that locals take the whole month of August off to vacation on either coasts of Spain. Since there’s no one in town, shops and restaurants will close for the month too. Those who stay in Madrid will close their shades during the day to keep the heat out and survive the whole season without natural light.
However, if you stick around for long enough you’ll soon realize the ghost town that is Madrid in the summer is actually really magical. There’s hardly any tourists so there’s no crowds! This is a major plus because Madrid is growing increasingly cramped. When night falls that’s when locals come out and the terraces fill up when the sun comes down! Best of all, the municipal pools in Madrid are a summer godsend from the city government. They are cheap, accessible and clean. And I’ll tell you which ones are the best!
How to spend a day at the pool in Madrid
The municipal pools, for me, are the definition of Madrid summer. The best part is that drinking and smoking is allowed. I love this and it makes the pool experience so much more fun. You are allowed to bring your own alcohol and cooler, as long as the alcohol is not in a glass container. A few of the pools have their own snack bar and sell beer or tinto de verano for a great price. You can smoke at the pools as there are large ash trays that are provided. Being topless at the pool is also completely normalized in Spain.
My advice for you is to bring a pack of beers, snacks, or even a meal for a picnic. Roll a joint, bring a speaker, a deck of cards or Uno and invite all of your friends and stay for the whole day. Walk somewhere for dinner and make your way to a terrace for more drinks by sunset time. That’s Madrid summer to me!
How to Reserve Tickets Online for Madrid’s Municipal Pools
You must get tickets online before you go to the pool. Because pools are so popular, they will often sell out so acquire tickets in advance (same day tickets are not guaranteed). It’s also not easy finding these tickets online. Click here for the link to the Portal web de Deporte, create an account and then login.
You’ll find the link to the tickets under the Piscinas de verano option under the Entradas de uso libre section. On the next page you can buy a single ticket, first selecting the pool you want to go to, then the time frame (morning/late afternoon/whole day) for 1.80€ (half day 25 y/o and under) or 2.25€ (over 26 y/o). The whole day tickets will cost 2X. These prices are so insanely accessible I would go almost every day in the summer!
BTW Madrid’s pools are typically open from mid May to mid September. Also, pool guards don’t check ID.
If you’re really committed to escaping the Madrid heat, there’s a few spots just outside of town that are great escape and provide a completely different experience from the city. I’ll also be mentioning two of these spots.
Map of Pools and Swimming Holes
🏊🏼♀️ Municipal Pools 🏊🏼♀️
La Elipa
- Location: Moratalaz, east of the center
- Closest metro/bus stop: Estrella metro, Vinateros bus stop
- Best bus route from the center: From Benavente take the 32 bus going towards Pavones and get off at Corregidor Diego Valderrábano
- Best metro route from the center: Take the 2 line towards Las Rosas, switch at Principe de Vergara and get on the 9 line towards Puerta de Arganda and get off at Estrella
La Elipa is a bit of a trek from the center of Madrid, but it’s totally worth it for the space and views you get. There’s two giant pools, plenty of covered shade, a picnic area with a playground and a snack bar that sells drinks. In my opinion this is Madrid’s best pool because of how spacious and clean it is. It has so much potential to be a pool club (lol). The vibes here are very local.
Peñuelas
- Location: Arganzuela, just south of the center
- Closest metro/bus stop: Embajadores metro
- Best bus route from the center: From Plaza Mayor take the 18 bus going towards Villaverde Cruce and get off at Puente Praga
- Best metro route from the center: Take the 3 line towards Villaverde Alto, get off at Embajadores and walk the rest of the way
- Walking: If you’re leaving from the center I would recommend walking – it’s all downhill!
Peñuelas is the definition of hidden gem. From the outside you’d have no idea that there’s a pool in the middle of this neighborhood. There’s two pools here, one for children. It’s much smaller than the other pools and because it feels relatively unknown, it’s never crowded and has a very local vibe. Great news everyone – it also has a pool bar attached with a seating area. There’s a bountiful grassy area to lie down, smoke and play Uno all day long.
Pro Tip: Since this pool’s location is in the south of Madrid, you’re just a stroll away from the park at Madrid Río. Once you’re done at the pool, make your way south til you reach the river and have a picnic or find a terrace to have a beer. Keep the party going!
Casa de Campo
- Location: Casa de Campo, west of the center
- Closest metro/ bus stop: Lago metro
- Best bus route from the center: From Benavente take the 65 bus going towards Gran Capitan and get off at Puerta del Ángel
- Best metro route from the center: If you leave from Tribunal or Plaza de España metro stop you can take the 10 line towards Puerta Del Sur until the Lago metro stop
This is by far Madrid’s most popular municipal pool. It’s very likely you’ll run into someone you know here and finding a spot under the shade will be a challenge if you’re going after 4pm or on the weekend. Some people fail to realize that there’s two pools at this location! The second pool is up the stairs on the left hand side (when you enter) and is known for being where the local gays hang out. Trust me, if you decide to hang out here you will be acutely aware that you’re lacking a six-pack and could never pull off a speedo. If you’re looking for a picnic area that will be on the far right side (when you enter) and this area is nice and shaded by some beautiful trees and has a few tables.
While Casa de Campo is popular and accessible from the center and always a fun time, it is by no means my favorite pool. It’s usually too crowded that finding a spot is difficult and some tanning spots are situated very inconveniently far from the pool. Worst of all there’s no pool bar!
Pro Tip: Don’t miss Lago! It’s the lake that the Lago metro station is named after that’s just a short walk downhill from the pool entrance. This area is one of my favorite places to hang out in Madrid in the summertime. After you’ve taken in enough sun, go down to the lake and have a beer or dinner at one of the many terrace restaurants that line the lake with views of the palace. There’s grassy areas too if you want to just chill next to the lake.
🏖 Oases Outside of Madrid 🏖
If you’re looking more for a day trip getaway, I have two options for you outside of town accessible by driving or by bus.
Piscina de Las Berceas
This pool is truly an oasis outside of Madrid. It’s located in the mountains so the whole grassy area around the pool is dotted with beautiful pine trees. Also since its elevation is higher, the temperature is a bit cooler. The pool itself is freezing which is nice if you’ve been in the sun all day.
You need to make sure to buy tickets online in advance which are 9€ for adults. I was not aware of this when I arrived to the entrance but was able to use my phone to buy tickets. However, since the location is a bit remote, cell service is spotty.
The pool is located in a large forested complex and the first thing you’ll see is a ropes course – which I’d like to come back for one day. Next you’ll reach the pool with changing areas, plenty of space to hang out, two restaurant bars on site and picnic area. This place is great to stay for the whole day! Do be aware that this pool is very family friendly and local.
Piscinas de Las Berceas Practical info:
- Location: Northwest of Madrid in Cercedilla
- How to get there by bus: From Moncloa Intercambiador (bus station) take the 684 Interurbano bus towards Cercedilla (Por Guadarrama) and get off at the Cercedilla Cercanías station. Cercedilla is in the zone C2 so the fare will be 5.10€ for one way – make sure to bring cash! (Interurbano buses do NOT take credit card)
- How to get there by train: From Chamartín take the C8 Cercanías towards Estación de tren Cercedilla and you’ll get off at the last stop. Buy a ticket from a Cercanías machine at the station. A one-way ticket that includes three zones (A,B,C) is 1,85 €.
- Once you arrive at Cercedilla, it’s a 1 hour walk to the pools. It’s not a bad hike at all and most of it follows a sidewalk and goes through the forrest at times. If you’re not up for it, you can take the 1 bus towards Ctra.M966-Sanatorio Fuenfria but make sure you have cash or the correct transport card
- When you leave the pools, there is a charter bus that will take you back to the Cercedilla station
Embalse de San Juan
This reservoir outside of Madrid is a great place to get away from the crowds. It’s not the beach but there are spots along the reservoir that have sand to lie down in. There are plenty of “beaches” to choose from all along the lake which makes for a nice hike. There are also a few “chiringuitos” or beach bars you can stop at for a beer or for a bocadillo (sandwich) for lunch. The vibes here are VERY local and the water is a bit warm but the advantage is that there’s a lot of space and privacy here.
Embalse de San Juan Practical info:
- Location: West of Madrid in San Martin de Valdeiglesias
- How to get there by car: Rent a car from the airport or use a car sharing app (like GoTo) and the drive is a little over an hour
- How to get there by bus: From the Principe Pío bus station take the 551 Interurbano (bright green bus) towards San Martin Valdeiglesias El Tiembolo and get off at Av.Marcial Llorente-Pantano De San Juan (stop ID 1061) which will take about 45min to 1hr. The buses run about every hour. From the bus stop you will have to walk only about 10 minutes to reach the lake. Since this lake is outside the Communidad de Madrid in zone C2, you need to make sure you have the right abono (the abono joven will work) but if you don’t have a transport card with the right zones on it you will need to bring cash (5.10€ for a one way) as credit card is not accepted on these buses.
This post is by no means a comprehensive guide to Madrid’s city pools or all that’s available. I mention these spots because I loved visiting them. The pools in Madrid are accessible, fun and wonderful place to spend your summer in a city that literally shuts down because people can’t stand the summer heat. If you’re in Madrid in the summer, you’re lucky because you’ll get to experience it like no one else. You won’t see the touristy side and you’ll get to appreciate the city for what it truly is.
I’d love to know if anyone has recommendations for other pools/ swimming spots in or outside of Madrid. Leave a comment! Thanks for reading 🙂
❤️ Valerie 🏊🏼♀️💧
3 responses to “The Best Pools in Madrid for the Annual Summer Inferno”
Very informative blog!!
Muchas gracias por el blog!
nada, gracias por apoyarme!